In a country known for its not-quite-finished roadways, even the most robust moto-scooters meet a daily challenge in commuting around town - but high costs restrict car ownership to the Cambodian elite. Thankfully, we have had the good fortune to cross paths with one of the Khmer glitterati: our driver, So Pheap. With a quiet demeanor (So Pheap translates roughly to "polite") and a ring on his left hand that would rival those generally reserved for Italian mafiosos and Super Bowl champions, he escorts us to and from the project site every day. The trip is only about 20 miles, but takes close to two hours - much of this time is spent in the short but treacherous length of unpaved roads close to the site, where So Pheap fearlessly navigates us through floods and fields, braving herds of cattle and dark of night (although I think the dark of night scares him a little bit) to carry us safely to our destinations.
Admittedly, our schedule on this trip has been a bit unruly. Often, complicated site conditions arise that require inspecting, or temples come up that require visiting. Yet, with all the confusion, the well-groomed So Pheap diligently manages a busy schedule of driving, napping, and feeding our obsession with dirty Khmer words. Indeed, this driver of a Toyota Camry - a car blinged with "VIP" stickers on the front and sides - is, without question, a Very Important Person.
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